He Ao Kotahi - 10 days in The Holy Lands.
48 hours till we arrive in Tel Aviv. Check out the above link for information.
Marhaba everyone and greetings from Ramallah. We have been here since the 3rd of September and it's been full on crazy.
To explain: Pai was invited to come to Palestine by Paula Jones of Te Ao Kotahi to assist in producing part of a documentary. This entails studying the disappearing arts of indigenous peoples around the world and in some circumstances the resurgence of old arts; an interaction of Maori art with local indigenous people.
Please take some time to check out the 'He Ao Kotahi' project on Facebook for an insight into these amazing stories and follow them to keep up to date with progress. Shirley Allens' take will keep you amused.
When we arrived in Tel Aviv we met Paula Jones and our first Arabic taxi driver who took us all to Ramallah and our first stop, a dance studio. Here we met Noora of the El Funoon dance troupe and here Pai learned a few steps of the tradional dabke dance and in return, Pai sang and taught some Poi to the students.
This was an amazing opportunity for Pai to get close to young people who have known little else but sergregation and violence. The dance was amazing and students were full of smiles and energy. Pais poi lessons were a bit more aggressive when the boys immediately started their helicopters up and hit each other. With a loud 'Kia mou' it was all under control.After the fun was over Pai sat down to talk with Noora the dance instructor, an amazing woman with strength who is outspoken about politics and not afraid to speak her mind. Conversation that we find hard to comprehend living in a free country.
4 Sept
Cultural Palace of Palestine. Apparently there's more than one. Anyhoo, our second day here and we are in for some culture. The El Funoon troupe is performing at a graduation ceremony at the palace and we have been invited. Another hot hot day but the auditorium is air conned so Giddyup. Colin and Pai were in the audience however were not aware that the graduation was a full Doo and sat through 950 individual certificates....in Arabic. ......Then the El Funoon troupe came on and danced with so much energy and vibrancy it just blew us away. The colourful costumes and athleticism was amazing. Well worth sitting through a graduation with no family members graduating.
In the afternoon Pai and Noora got together and under the watchful eye of Paula, were filmed chatting about their various interests, politics, life in NZ compared with life in Palestine. Pai wrapped up the filming with a waita and a hongi. A very emotional moment!
That night we went out for tea at a cafe with a largely male clientele chuffing on shisha pipes. It was the man changing the hot coals on each pipe which amused me, diligently going about his business, I wondered if there was a shisha pipe charcoal changing course that he had to do?
5 Sept
The big day! Today Pai gets to meet an elder of Bedouin descent. A dream of Pais' for a lifetime. So here we go.
Set off to drive to Jericho with Muhmad our taxi driver. An amazing drive through the desert and down a descent which takes us towards the Dead Sea, 400m below sea level, passing checkpoints and the Wall to our destination. While trying to find our contact in Jericho we come across a man in a wheel chair, quietly chipping away at a knarly tree stump with a claw hammer and screw driver, making ornate shelves to sit in the corner of his ramshackle lounge. He is missing one leg and wheelchair bound. Anyhoo, Pai gets talking to him about his work, nek minute, Pai has the tools and she's chipping and grinding away as if she's never left Waitangi. I'm sure this man wanted to keep her on.
However we had a target in mind...to find the Bedoiun elders. Our contact showed up and took us to the camp; not how we had expected, tents, camels, sand etc, but a concrete built suburb of Jericho. We sat down with the men and drank sweet tea( very sweet) and coffee(very strong) and waited while negotiations were made to have an audience with the elders. The Bedouin are very suspicious about outsiders and their intentions having been moved, cleansed etc over the centuries. An hour passed while Pai was grilled by the matriarchs of the tribe, the men being left to drink more coffee and talk endlessly in Arabic. Eventually it all fell into place. Pai was granted an audience with an Elder who was in excess of 100 years old (no records kept in the desert). She wears a chin tattoo she was given as a young girl but cannot remember exactly when and is one of the last ladies to have tradional facial tattoo due to religion ending the tradional ways of Bedouin.
This meeting lasted half an hour when the men were expelled to let her pray how ever it was a short prayer and men were allowed back into her sparse 'visitors' room. Pai was now on the mat on the floor beside the kuia and exchanging korero. She told Pai to drink her tea and slapped Pai on the hand and then kissed her hand afterwards. A very enlightening moment! This had a regal feel about it, like we were in the midst of an icon from another era.
A very satisfied He Ao Kotahi - The One World Project film crew boarded the taxi for our journey home to Ramallah.
6th Sept
Today was a bit slower with meetings close to home. Think the team were ready for it after such a high yesterday.
7th Sept
Big day!
All aboard for a trip to Shu'fat refugee camp. Through the checkpoints again to a very different township. I was expecting a camp full of tents but this place has been here so long it's now a built up township of various building qualities. While there is no building code and houses are built on top of the rubble from the last one, they appear to have solid foundations and rise several storeys. The roads are third world and traffic is appalling. However, the people we met are happy to greet you and ask where you are from, are well dressed, with the trendy hair cuts. The barbers must be the wealthiest people here.
A short drive takes us through the city to the Palestinian Child Centre, Jerusalem, where we meet Muhammed, who has a music studio within the centre. Pai and Muhammed get their heads together and start producing music. Look out for the doco for finished piece on He Ao Kotahi - The One World Project. As the children start to arrive from school it's out with the Poi and time for some fun. As with the El Funoon dancers, the kids try to beat each other with the poi but Pai soon has their attention with a sharp 'Kia mau.' A well drilled Kapa Haka group in the making right there. The littlies loved it and off they went to wrestle each other to the ground, full of energy and excitement, just like we used to before electronics.
Next up. Bus trip through the major check point between Ramallah and Jerusalem. The bus stops and everyone under the age of 50 has to get off. We thinks we ok cos we are old but tourists have to get off no matter your age. A very orderly line up at the back of the parked bus and one by one, approach the checkpoint with ID. The soldiers on the point look younger than my kids but they carry big guns so no funnies to be he here. No issues so back on the bus and we proceed in the waka to the Metropole Hotel in Saladin Street where we are based for next two nights. A bit of Fawlty Towers about this place; no one at the counter, lift only carries 3 max but on this occasion only two of us ......mmmmmm!! Several attempts in the lift, where the ground floor appears the only option, so leave the bags in and walk up the stairs to meet the lift.
Now settled in we off to dinner to meet Pais' Danish/ Arab protege. Talk about having common ground. Pai and Nadin hit it off straight away and chatted like long lost friends and not someone who had just met for the first time. All this was very well but we are still to film the meet up for the He Ao Kotahi doco. "Cut" says Shirley and let's start again please..."this time with camera rolling." So for the next couple hours Pai and Nadin walked and talked about their art, their respective cultures and what it means to them both (all recorded for your pleasure at a later date) while walking through the Old City of Jerusalem. Have a listen to Nadin, link below:
Around 8pm, we gathered in the area in front of the Damascus Gates to say our farewells. Pai produces a print of her work to gift to Nadin. It was a gracious end to a beautiful night with two very talented artists. Kiaora.
But....."Cut.......can we film that now?"
Midnight: woke to a right kerfuffle in the street outside. Got up and had a wee peek out the window to see numerous soldiers milling around having just closed the road. Half hour later 20 - 30 people arrive and enter through large gates. A white van arrives and unloads what appears to be a body bag into the hands of several men and carried through the gates. It's all quiet for a while so next time I peek out the window all is quiet; no soldiers, no people ....all quiet. We later discover that through those gates and up some stairs is open ground containing a cemetery and that all Arabs are buried within 24 hours of death.
8 September
Another day and more wandering to be done around this historic city. Today Pai wanted to see the West Wall also known as the Wailing Wall so we dawdled through the cities cobbled streets till we found it. It's huge so it's not like it was ever lost. The wall was built by Herod the Great a long time ago and is now visited by pilgrims from all over the world. Women are not allowed to approach the wall so Pai stayed in the segregated area while Colin went and touched the wall, took some photos, watched....and left.
Back up another hill within the city we were hot on the trail of Christ (Stations of the Cross) where he carried the cross to Calvary. We passed several 'stations' which were marked on the walls of the streets, amongst the shops. As we passed these stations, shop keepers would pop out and try to sell souvenirs related to each station but we were told not to buy anything in Jerusalem as its much better value in Hebron. So Pai controlled her instincts and didn't buy any trinkets...at all.
We were held up by one old man, little Jewish man who asked in his Jewish accent ' where are you going, I will help you' All this man wanted was 50 schekels each for a guided tour. He was very angry little old man when told we didn't want his tour, after he led us up another hill calling 'follow me, follow me' to another church where he stomped off, growling under his breath, cursing at locals as he went on his merry way.
The little angry man had left is in a quadrangle area where there was one little door down some steps which led into darkness. We had a look in which appeared to be a little chapel, very dark with very old paintings. We could hear voices in the dark and assumed it was one way in and one way out. However ......a small group went in and didn't come out, so, we followed as the sun was too hot ootside and we found where the voices came from led to another passage. Whoa...back into the church of the Holy Sepulchre.....exactly where the old man was taking us. Another hour of witnessing devotion en masse had both of us feeling over whelmed so having taken the obligatory photos, we left. It's hard to understand why religion has caused so many wars over the centuries when all you see in this church, the church where it all began, is peace and devotion and a congregation who all believe in one supreme being, whichever name you use.
A short dawdle towards the Damascus Gates where everyone is packing up for the night, re stocking the shops and tidying up after another day's work, we exit the Old City for the final time.....or so we thought.
9th September
Pai has trained dogs all her life and Colin is an ex NZ Poice dog handler and MOD (UK) handler so you can imagine their surprise when the opportunity to visit the Palestinian Police Dog Section was on the table. Let's go.
We met the commander at the base and discussed the dogs role in Palestine. German Shepherds are preferred choice and the dogs are provided to the Palestinians by the Russians govt. These dogs are largely used for explosive and drug detection work only, criminal man work and tracking is not an option. The dogs are in various states of health mainly due to the lack of resources and a qualified vet. The only vet available has not had any training with dogs so there in lies a major problem. The initial training is provided by the Russians in Russia so on going local training is only carried out every six months were all the handlers come together and share skills. The commander is very happy and confident in his ability and they are having success. A wee demo was giving where one dog located a handgun hidden in a vehicle and the drug dog located a bag of drugs also hidden in the same vehicle. Pai then gave a wee demo in obedience which the dog was happy to oblige. So damn hot for a shepherd with a thick, long coat. Can't help thinking these dogs are not right for this climate.
Next on the agenda was a return to Shu'fat Refugee Camp so Pai could continue her recording with Mohammed. This is a collaberation of Te Reo and Arabic in a funked up version of tradional and contemporary music. It was a long day for all involved which was made longer when taxis refused to come into the Camp at night due to the perceived dangers. Anyhoo, a taxi was found and all arrived home safely at midnight.
Sat 10 September
Today saw a visit to the Palestinian Child Arts Centre in Hebron. This is a centre which was set up for the child victims of atrocities in Hebron which saw the children painting in red and black only; red for blood and black for death. The progress to date has been phenomenal. The art produced by these kids is heart breaking and challenges our perceptions of how Palestinian children see the world.
Pai spoke to each artist, 15 - 22 who were all very keen to discuss their art with her. Pai in exchange shared her art; prints, carvings and songs in a very emotionally charged atmosphere. We could not imagine what these kids have been through in their short life time.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/PCAC-Palestinian-Child-Arts-Center/119104088161363
Check Instagram acc: _colinharrison.
A reality check came next; a check point appeared which was more like an old turn style at an old soccer ground, difference being this was in a darkened tunnel with bars to the roof and a turnstile at each end. Shuffle through the turnstile and empty pockets and bags onto a table and repeat, all under the watchful eye of a child with a semi automatic weapon slung over her shoulder. Got through that part ok and made our way to Hebron Old City where we intended to visit a mosque, the scene of a mass shooting in the 90s. This was cut short by a small group of Muslims, one of which was waving a big stick and seemed prepared to use it. We took his directions and left.
Filming began when we found a small textile shop where all goods were made by a local collective www.womeninhebron.com. Pai spoke at length with the only female store keeper left in the souq, others leaving due to fear of the settlers and military. As if on cue, the military arrived with a group of settlers. Imagine the scene - small market set in darkened alleys with houses built above and through an arch a square opens out into the bright sunshine. Armed soldiers; tactical vests and helmets, arrive with a group of Jews dressed in white. All round defence set up around the settlers. This is amongst a small market now called 'ghost town' as the settlers are slowly moving in and forcing the Palestinians out, a small helpless market town full of elderly stall holders. I may be naive but this is what I see. Meanwhile Pai is still filming and told just to walk through the soldiers, which she did with camera man in tow. This was one of those memorable but sad experiences we will not forget.
All aboard the transport for home via a crazy fruit and veg market whereh e taxi Check Instagram: _colinharrison for some of their art and please like, they need all the support they can getaway being over taken by small children pushing barrows of fruit. The next 20 minutes was hilarious for the passages but not the driver; apparently under local law if you hit a female with your vehicle you have to marry them. Our driver was under some pressure but got us through without having to get married. Ka Pai.
Back on the highway and get air flowing through the cab only to slow down for another check point. There's a certain satisfaction which is hard to describe when you arrive home, get inside and sit down.....and breathe.......
11th September
Herods Gate in Jerusalem. See, I said we'd be back. Filming commences with the intro of one of Jerusalems best known muso's, Rayeed. Two police vehicles are park against the wall in a checkpoint area, several coppers sat to the rear smoking. In order to stay out of camera shot Pai wanders behind the police vehicles only to be yelled at in Hebrew, cleverly Pai answers in Te Reo confusing the coppers who in turn choose to ignore her. Pai 1 - coppers - nil. Filming continues through El Saladin Street to a cafe where they parked up and chatted for an hour. Then off to dinner at a beautiful restaurant where Rayeed demonstrates one of his many musical talents on a beat box while Pai sings. A great piece of impromptu jamming. I can't wait to see this doco by He Ao Kotahi. One thing I haven't mentioned here are the bloopers. There's plenty. Pai has a natural gift for comedy and soon has even the hardest interviewee smiling.
12 September
Well whanau, today was the funniest yet. We drove to Jericho to visit the Dead Sea, a beautiful drive through the desert with some amazing scenery, Bedouin villages and herds of goats and dodging the odd checkpoint. When we arrived it was shut. Yes folks, the Dead Sea is shut to visitors unless you visit one of the resorts and pay 60shekels an adult to enter. Our driver Luai, who is much more than just a driver; he fed us, watered us, gave us money and went well out of his was to assist in any way he could, drove us another hour to find another entrance to the Sea. The entire west side is fence off and roads have been closed by the Israelis and bathing is strictly forbidden after the hours of darkness. We drove that far we thought we could see the Interislander pulling into Picton. The korero in the van was hilarious, the Sea being shut and and all that...wouldn't happen in NZ etc.... We turned around where the road had been closed off and headed back to Jericho. Pai managed a wee ride on a camel, got some shopping, had a coffee and on wee went.
Into Jericho and our task was to locate the handicapped woodcarver we met last week and gift him some tools due to him using a screwdriver and claw hammer to carve his wood. When we found his whare he was absent but the rest of his family were there. Apparently he's a local leader and was out a function. The call went out and shortly after he arrived and we all had sweet tea and fig biscuits. Pai handed over the tools and he was speechless. His tree stump he was working on sat in the corner of his balcony almost completed and is used as a flower pot stand is quite striking. We were impressed with his workmanship considering the tools he used. I'm sure he will enjoy having new chisels and will create more wonderful art.
13 September
Road trip to Bethlehem and another incredibly busy holy site.
The road into Bethlehem is amazing; the hilliest, windiest road I have ever been on, tyres screeched trying to grip the road as we drove around the steepest hairpins, overtaking the slow cars and being overtaken by the faster ones like the Wacky Races. It was so steep in parts I though we were off to meet our Maker in person.
Into Bethlehem and another tired city under occupation and control of Israel. We made it into the centre were Herod murderered the innocents and the Manger stands within a huge church; The church of the Holy Trinity. Unfortunately the church is under renovation and the interior is shrouded in large canvas draped over scaffolding hiding most of the structure. A short trip within led down some steps through an arched door to the birthplace of Christ. As with the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, this is marked with a shrine and under the alter is the spot where Christ was born. Pilgrims poured through, kneeling under the alter and kissing, touching this sacred spot while others prayed in DIY pews.
Pai interviewed a local tattoo artist while Shirley was 'threaded' by a barber.
Kai and last minute shopping through the souq before another amazing drive home.
14 September
Well whanau, its our last day in Palestine; we fly out today. It has been an amazing journey and one that would challenge the strongest opinions about Israel and Palestine. We are not politically minded but what we witnessed here in Palestine would make you angry and sad. Throughout our time here the one thing that stands out is the friendliness of the people. Our drivers have been so incredibly kind and generous to the point they loaned us money, fed us and went well beyond their duties. Amazing, amazing people. Thank you Mohmed and Luai for your kindness.
To Paula and Shirley, without you we would never have experienced Palestine. Thank you both so much, Paula for insisting Pai do this doco and to Shirley for your incredible knowledge and explanations of life in Palestine.
Please Please take a moment to check out the work of 'He Ao Kotahi - The One World Project' .
Photos:
Instagram: _colinharrison
Pinterest: colinh9.
So, unless anything happens between now and flight time, from all of us here in Ramallah,
Kiaora
Signing off.
Colin.
