Praesent commodo cursus magna, vel scelerisque nisl consectetur et. Curabitur blandit tempus porttitor. Fusce dapibus, tellus ac cursus commodo, tortor mauris condimentum nibh, ut fermentum massa justo sit amet risus. Cras mattis consectetur purus sit amet fermentum. Cras mattis consectetur purus sit amet fermentum.
World renowned artist Alex Caminiti from Sicily filled the studio with his charismatic energy. .. from one island to another, from one artist to another. It was awesome to be given the opportunity to meet Alex and to do his first piece of ink ....must be the longest he has had to sit still and not do anything with his hands, which as any artist knows is very hard to do 😊
All the way from Sicily, Alex endured a few hours in the chair....
Thumbs up is a good sign 😊
Pai is currently exhibiting an assortment of her artwork at Kings Theatre in Kawakawa. Some of these items have been sold, the carved broad bill made its way to Switzerland with a very happy customer.
Every year I return to Te Tii Marae to help with the official welcoming of various official groups such as diplomatic ambassadors, NZ Navy ,Government officials etc..
One of the roles I have is as kai karanga and kai waiata.. I always treasure my time here being with my elders, listening to their historic rhetoric with much humor amongst the serious manner of some topics that are brought to the whare ( ancestral house ) for discussion.
The welcoming of the waka on the Te Tii beach is always a highlight for the thousands that come to celebrate Waitangi day, and is definately my favorite part of the day...The waka teams have been training hard for the week prior ,and it is their time to shine and to show off the salutes ,Haka and drills they have learnt...my role is to karanga ( call ,welcome ) the waka to shore and then to farewell them with safe blessings until we see them again next year..
Paitangi got the opportunity to travel to Japan to film a web documentary as part of a three part series for Vice. Here are the details as they appear on the feature:
Paitangi Ostick is one of the first females to practice tā moko – the Māori art of tattoo. In this episode of The Other Side of Ink, she travels from New Zealand to Tokyo, where she meets Japanese tattoo artist Megumu Kamata to compare notes on their shared craft.
Paitangi and Megumu both have a connection to the traditional styles of their practice, but they also integrate some modern elements into their work. They bond over the mutual belief that tattooing is a privilege, not a right, and that it is an honour to be able to mark someone else's skin.
The pair explore the layered aspects of ink in Japan: the spiritual, the cultural, and the historical. They visit a shrine, where Megumu goes for inspiration; discuss the perceptions of ink in Japan and associations to the yakuza; and observe a traditional Tebori tattooist at work, whose hands-on approach and chisel work is similar to the tā moko style.
48 hours till we arrive in Tel Aviv. Check out the above link for information.
Marhaba everyone and greetings from Ramallah. We have been here since the 3rd of September and it's been full on crazy.
To explain: Pai was invited to come to Palestine by Paula Jones of Te Ao Kotahi to assist in producing part of a documentary. This entails studying the disappearing arts of indigenous peoples around the world and in some circumstances the resurgence of old arts; an interaction of Maori art with local indigenous people.
Please take some time to check out the 'He Ao Kotahi' project on Facebook for an insight into these amazing stories and follow them to keep up to date with progress. Shirley Allens' take will keep you amused.
When we arrived in Tel Aviv we met Paula Jones and our first Arabic taxi driver who took us all to Ramallah and our first stop, a dance studio. Here we met Noora of the El Funoon dance troupe and here Pai learned a few steps of the tradional dabke dance and in return, Pai sang and taught some Poi to the students.
This was an amazing opportunity for Pai to get close to young people who have known little else but sergregation and violence. The dance was amazing and students were full of smiles and energy. Pais poi lessons were a bit more aggressive when the boys immediately started their helicopters up and hit each other. With a loud 'Kia mou' it was all under control.After the fun was over Pai sat down to talk with Noora the dance instructor, an amazing woman with strength who is outspoken about politics and not afraid to speak her mind. Conversation that we find hard to comprehend living in a free country.
4 Sept
Cultural Palace of Palestine. Apparently there's more than one. Anyhoo, our second day here and we are in for some culture. The El Funoon troupe is performing at a graduation ceremony at the palace and we have been invited. Another hot hot day but the auditorium is air conned so Giddyup. Colin and Pai were in the audience however were not aware that the graduation was a full Doo and sat through 950 individual certificates....in Arabic. ......Then the El Funoon troupe came on and danced with so much energy and vibrancy it just blew us away. The colourful costumes and athleticism was amazing. Well worth sitting through a graduation with no family members graduating.
In the afternoon Pai and Noora got together and under the watchful eye of Paula, were filmed chatting about their various interests, politics, life in NZ compared with life in Palestine. Pai wrapped up the filming with a waita and a hongi. A very emotional moment!
That night we went out for tea at a cafe with a largely male clientele chuffing on shisha pipes. It was the man changing the hot coals on each pipe which amused me, diligently going about his business, I wondered if there was a shisha pipe charcoal changing course that he had to do?
5 Sept
The big day! Today Pai gets to meet an elder of Bedouin descent. A dream of Pais' for a lifetime. So here we go.
Set off to drive to Jericho with Muhmad our taxi driver. An amazing drive through the desert and down a descent which takes us towards the Dead Sea, 400m below sea level, passing checkpoints and the Wall to our destination. While trying to find our contact in Jericho we come across a man in a wheel chair, quietly chipping away at a knarly tree stump with a claw hammer and screw driver, making ornate shelves to sit in the corner of his ramshackle lounge. He is missing one leg and wheelchair bound. Anyhoo, Pai gets talking to him about his work, nek minute, Pai has the tools and she's chipping and grinding away as if she's never left Waitangi. I'm sure this man wanted to keep her on.
However we had a target in mind...to find the Bedoiun elders. Our contact showed up and took us to the camp; not how we had expected, tents, camels, sand etc, but a concrete built suburb of Jericho. We sat down with the men and drank sweet tea( very sweet) and coffee(very strong) and waited while negotiations were made to have an audience with the elders. The Bedouin are very suspicious about outsiders and their intentions having been moved, cleansed etc over the centuries. An hour passed while Pai was grilled by the matriarchs of the tribe, the men being left to drink more coffee and talk endlessly in Arabic. Eventually it all fell into place. Pai was granted an audience with an Elder who was in excess of 100 years old (no records kept in the desert). She wears a chin tattoo she was given as a young girl but cannot remember exactly when and is one of the last ladies to have tradional facial tattoo due to religion ending the tradional ways of Bedouin.
This meeting lasted half an hour when the men were expelled to let her pray how ever it was a short prayer and men were allowed back into her sparse 'visitors' room. Pai was now on the mat on the floor beside the kuia and exchanging korero. She told Pai to drink her tea and slapped Pai on the hand and then kissed her hand afterwards. A very enlightening moment! This had a regal feel about it, like we were in the midst of an icon from another era.
A very satisfied He Ao Kotahi - The One World Project film crew boarded the taxi for our journey home to Ramallah.
6th Sept
Today was a bit slower with meetings close to home. Think the team were ready for it after such a high yesterday.
7th Sept
Big day!
All aboard for a trip to Shu'fat refugee camp. Through the checkpoints again to a very different township. I was expecting a camp full of tents but this place has been here so long it's now a built up township of various building qualities. While there is no building code and houses are built on top of the rubble from the last one, they appear to have solid foundations and rise several storeys. The roads are third world and traffic is appalling. However, the people we met are happy to greet you and ask where you are from, are well dressed, with the trendy hair cuts. The barbers must be the wealthiest people here.
A short drive takes us through the city to the Palestinian Child Centre, Jerusalem, where we meet Muhammed, who has a music studio within the centre. Pai and Muhammed get their heads together and start producing music. Look out for the doco for finished piece on He Ao Kotahi - The One World Project. As the children start to arrive from school it's out with the Poi and time for some fun. As with the El Funoon dancers, the kids try to beat each other with the poi but Pai soon has their attention with a sharp 'Kia mau.' A well drilled Kapa Haka group in the making right there. The littlies loved it and off they went to wrestle each other to the ground, full of energy and excitement, just like we used to before electronics.
Next up. Bus trip through the major check point between Ramallah and Jerusalem. The bus stops and everyone under the age of 50 has to get off. We thinks we ok cos we are old but tourists have to get off no matter your age. A very orderly line up at the back of the parked bus and one by one, approach the checkpoint with ID. The soldiers on the point look younger than my kids but they carry big guns so no funnies to be he here. No issues so back on the bus and we proceed in the waka to the Metropole Hotel in Saladin Street where we are based for next two nights. A bit of Fawlty Towers about this place; no one at the counter, lift only carries 3 max but on this occasion only two of us ......mmmmmm!! Several attempts in the lift, where the ground floor appears the only option, so leave the bags in and walk up the stairs to meet the lift.
Now settled in we off to dinner to meet Pais' Danish/ Arab protege. Talk about having common ground. Pai and Nadin hit it off straight away and chatted like long lost friends and not someone who had just met for the first time. All this was very well but we are still to film the meet up for the He Ao Kotahi doco. "Cut" says Shirley and let's start again please..."this time with camera rolling." So for the next couple hours Pai and Nadin walked and talked about their art, their respective cultures and what it means to them both (all recorded for your pleasure at a later date) while walking through the Old City of Jerusalem. Have a listen to Nadin, link below:
Around 8pm, we gathered in the area in front of the Damascus Gates to say our farewells. Pai produces a print of her work to gift to Nadin. It was a gracious end to a beautiful night with two very talented artists. Kiaora.
But....."Cut.......can we film that now?"
Midnight: woke to a right kerfuffle in the street outside. Got up and had a wee peek out the window to see numerous soldiers milling around having just closed the road. Half hour later 20 - 30 people arrive and enter through large gates. A white van arrives and unloads what appears to be a body bag into the hands of several men and carried through the gates. It's all quiet for a while so next time I peek out the window all is quiet; no soldiers, no people ....all quiet. We later discover that through those gates and up some stairs is open ground containing a cemetery and that all Arabs are buried within 24 hours of death.
8 September
Another day and more wandering to be done around this historic city. Today Pai wanted to see the West Wall also known as the Wailing Wall so we dawdled through the cities cobbled streets till we found it. It's huge so it's not like it was ever lost. The wall was built by Herod the Great a long time ago and is now visited by pilgrims from all over the world. Women are not allowed to approach the wall so Pai stayed in the segregated area while Colin went and touched the wall, took some photos, watched....and left.
Back up another hill within the city we were hot on the trail of Christ (Stations of the Cross) where he carried the cross to Calvary. We passed several 'stations' which were marked on the walls of the streets, amongst the shops. As we passed these stations, shop keepers would pop out and try to sell souvenirs related to each station but we were told not to buy anything in Jerusalem as its much better value in Hebron. So Pai controlled her instincts and didn't buy any trinkets...at all.
We were held up by one old man, little Jewish man who asked in his Jewish accent ' where are you going, I will help you' All this man wanted was 50 schekels each for a guided tour. He was very angry little old man when told we didn't want his tour, after he led us up another hill calling 'follow me, follow me' to another church where he stomped off, growling under his breath, cursing at locals as he went on his merry way.
The little angry man had left is in a quadrangle area where there was one little door down some steps which led into darkness. We had a look in which appeared to be a little chapel, very dark with very old paintings. We could hear voices in the dark and assumed it was one way in and one way out. However ......a small group went in and didn't come out, so, we followed as the sun was too hot ootside and we found where the voices came from led to another passage. Whoa...back into the church of the Holy Sepulchre.....exactly where the old man was taking us. Another hour of witnessing devotion en masse had both of us feeling over whelmed so having taken the obligatory photos, we left. It's hard to understand why religion has caused so many wars over the centuries when all you see in this church, the church where it all began, is peace and devotion and a congregation who all believe in one supreme being, whichever name you use.
A short dawdle towards the Damascus Gates where everyone is packing up for the night, re stocking the shops and tidying up after another day's work, we exit the Old City for the final time.....or so we thought.
9th September
Pai has trained dogs all her life and Colin is an ex NZ Poice dog handler and MOD (UK) handler so you can imagine their surprise when the opportunity to visit the Palestinian Police Dog Section was on the table. Let's go.
We met the commander at the base and discussed the dogs role in Palestine. German Shepherds are preferred choice and the dogs are provided to the Palestinians by the Russians govt. These dogs are largely used for explosive and drug detection work only, criminal man work and tracking is not an option. The dogs are in various states of health mainly due to the lack of resources and a qualified vet. The only vet available has not had any training with dogs so there in lies a major problem. The initial training is provided by the Russians in Russia so on going local training is only carried out every six months were all the handlers come together and share skills. The commander is very happy and confident in his ability and they are having success. A wee demo was giving where one dog located a handgun hidden in a vehicle and the drug dog located a bag of drugs also hidden in the same vehicle. Pai then gave a wee demo in obedience which the dog was happy to oblige. So damn hot for a shepherd with a thick, long coat. Can't help thinking these dogs are not right for this climate.
Next on the agenda was a return to Shu'fat Refugee Camp so Pai could continue her recording with Mohammed. This is a collaberation of Te Reo and Arabic in a funked up version of tradional and contemporary music. It was a long day for all involved which was made longer when taxis refused to come into the Camp at night due to the perceived dangers. Anyhoo, a taxi was found and all arrived home safely at midnight.
Sat 10 September
Today saw a visit to the Palestinian Child Arts Centre in Hebron. This is a centre which was set up for the child victims of atrocities in Hebron which saw the children painting in red and black only; red for blood and black for death. The progress to date has been phenomenal. The art produced by these kids is heart breaking and challenges our perceptions of how Palestinian children see the world.
Pai spoke to each artist, 15 - 22 who were all very keen to discuss their art with her. Pai in exchange shared her art; prints, carvings and songs in a very emotionally charged atmosphere. We could not imagine what these kids have been through in their short life time.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/PCAC-Palestinian-Child-Arts-Center/119104088161363
Check Instagram acc: _colinharrison.
A reality check came next; a check point appeared which was more like an old turn style at an old soccer ground, difference being this was in a darkened tunnel with bars to the roof and a turnstile at each end. Shuffle through the turnstile and empty pockets and bags onto a table and repeat, all under the watchful eye of a child with a semi automatic weapon slung over her shoulder. Got through that part ok and made our way to Hebron Old City where we intended to visit a mosque, the scene of a mass shooting in the 90s. This was cut short by a small group of Muslims, one of which was waving a big stick and seemed prepared to use it. We took his directions and left.
Filming began when we found a small textile shop where all goods were made by a local collective www.womeninhebron.com. Pai spoke at length with the only female store keeper left in the souq, others leaving due to fear of the settlers and military. As if on cue, the military arrived with a group of settlers. Imagine the scene - small market set in darkened alleys with houses built above and through an arch a square opens out into the bright sunshine. Armed soldiers; tactical vests and helmets, arrive with a group of Jews dressed in white. All round defence set up around the settlers. This is amongst a small market now called 'ghost town' as the settlers are slowly moving in and forcing the Palestinians out, a small helpless market town full of elderly stall holders. I may be naive but this is what I see. Meanwhile Pai is still filming and told just to walk through the soldiers, which she did with camera man in tow. This was one of those memorable but sad experiences we will not forget.
All aboard the transport for home via a crazy fruit and veg market whereh e taxi Check Instagram: _colinharrison for some of their art and please like, they need all the support they can getaway being over taken by small children pushing barrows of fruit. The next 20 minutes was hilarious for the passages but not the driver; apparently under local law if you hit a female with your vehicle you have to marry them. Our driver was under some pressure but got us through without having to get married. Ka Pai.
Back on the highway and get air flowing through the cab only to slow down for another check point. There's a certain satisfaction which is hard to describe when you arrive home, get inside and sit down.....and breathe.......
11th September
Herods Gate in Jerusalem. See, I said we'd be back. Filming commences with the intro of one of Jerusalems best known muso's, Rayeed. Two police vehicles are park against the wall in a checkpoint area, several coppers sat to the rear smoking. In order to stay out of camera shot Pai wanders behind the police vehicles only to be yelled at in Hebrew, cleverly Pai answers in Te Reo confusing the coppers who in turn choose to ignore her. Pai 1 - coppers - nil. Filming continues through El Saladin Street to a cafe where they parked up and chatted for an hour. Then off to dinner at a beautiful restaurant where Rayeed demonstrates one of his many musical talents on a beat box while Pai sings. A great piece of impromptu jamming. I can't wait to see this doco by He Ao Kotahi. One thing I haven't mentioned here are the bloopers. There's plenty. Pai has a natural gift for comedy and soon has even the hardest interviewee smiling.
12 September
Well whanau, today was the funniest yet. We drove to Jericho to visit the Dead Sea, a beautiful drive through the desert with some amazing scenery, Bedouin villages and herds of goats and dodging the odd checkpoint. When we arrived it was shut. Yes folks, the Dead Sea is shut to visitors unless you visit one of the resorts and pay 60shekels an adult to enter. Our driver Luai, who is much more than just a driver; he fed us, watered us, gave us money and went well out of his was to assist in any way he could, drove us another hour to find another entrance to the Sea. The entire west side is fence off and roads have been closed by the Israelis and bathing is strictly forbidden after the hours of darkness. We drove that far we thought we could see the Interislander pulling into Picton. The korero in the van was hilarious, the Sea being shut and and all that...wouldn't happen in NZ etc.... We turned around where the road had been closed off and headed back to Jericho. Pai managed a wee ride on a camel, got some shopping, had a coffee and on wee went.
Into Jericho and our task was to locate the handicapped woodcarver we met last week and gift him some tools due to him using a screwdriver and claw hammer to carve his wood. When we found his whare he was absent but the rest of his family were there. Apparently he's a local leader and was out a function. The call went out and shortly after he arrived and we all had sweet tea and fig biscuits. Pai handed over the tools and he was speechless. His tree stump he was working on sat in the corner of his balcony almost completed and is used as a flower pot stand is quite striking. We were impressed with his workmanship considering the tools he used. I'm sure he will enjoy having new chisels and will create more wonderful art.
13 September
Road trip to Bethlehem and another incredibly busy holy site.
The road into Bethlehem is amazing; the hilliest, windiest road I have ever been on, tyres screeched trying to grip the road as we drove around the steepest hairpins, overtaking the slow cars and being overtaken by the faster ones like the Wacky Races. It was so steep in parts I though we were off to meet our Maker in person.
Into Bethlehem and another tired city under occupation and control of Israel. We made it into the centre were Herod murderered the innocents and the Manger stands within a huge church; The church of the Holy Trinity. Unfortunately the church is under renovation and the interior is shrouded in large canvas draped over scaffolding hiding most of the structure. A short trip within led down some steps through an arched door to the birthplace of Christ. As with the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, this is marked with a shrine and under the alter is the spot where Christ was born. Pilgrims poured through, kneeling under the alter and kissing, touching this sacred spot while others prayed in DIY pews.
Pai interviewed a local tattoo artist while Shirley was 'threaded' by a barber.
Kai and last minute shopping through the souq before another amazing drive home.
14 September
Well whanau, its our last day in Palestine; we fly out today. It has been an amazing journey and one that would challenge the strongest opinions about Israel and Palestine. We are not politically minded but what we witnessed here in Palestine would make you angry and sad. Throughout our time here the one thing that stands out is the friendliness of the people. Our drivers have been so incredibly kind and generous to the point they loaned us money, fed us and went well beyond their duties. Amazing, amazing people. Thank you Mohmed and Luai for your kindness.
To Paula and Shirley, without you we would never have experienced Palestine. Thank you both so much, Paula for insisting Pai do this doco and to Shirley for your incredible knowledge and explanations of life in Palestine.
Please Please take a moment to check out the work of 'He Ao Kotahi - The One World Project' .
Photos:
Instagram: _colinharrison
Pinterest: colinh9.
So, unless anything happens between now and flight time, from all of us here in Ramallah,
Kiaora
Signing off.
Colin.
www.paitangiartandink.co.nz will be coming to a town near you soon. If you or your friends are in Scotland/ England and wish to have Ta Moko please message/ email me with details asp as we intend to be in the UK around 20 July. Details required: size and location of ta moko on your body and where you live. If we have enough interest then we will come to you. Watch this space for further details. email: colinharrison200@gmail.com.
Planning is now in full swing for Scotland Tour. Arrive late in Glasgow on the 19th July and on the on 20th the fun begins.
1st cab off the rank is a visit to Rob Allan of Amber Peyote Woodcraft and Design in Kilburnie. Check out their Facebook page. From Kilburnie we are travelling a clockwise direction through the Scottish Highlands, Pai is desperate to see a heelan coo in the heelans and to swim with Nessie in the Great Glen. A family stop in Inverness to see cuzzies and then to Rothes to see niece and fam. A wee drive through to Cupar will complete the Highland leg of the tour.
This blog will of course be updated and dates confirmed as we go.
Cmon Scotland!!!
13 July
Well people, it's a week till we arrive in Bonnie Scotland. Paitangi is all booked up for our Scottish leg so if you were thinking of having a walk in....too late! To all those whom have supported Pai, I thank you and look forward to seeing you all very soon.
18 July
Our penultimate night in Munich. We are kinda excited as tomorrow night we touch down in Glasgow ready for a whirlwind tour of Bonnie Scotland. Last night we had our cultural fling with Beethoven and his 9th symphony. What an outstanding night; Bavarian Symphony Orchestra playing to an outdoor audience in the Odeonplatz on a balmy Bavarian evening, as the sun goes down and the moon comes up. A fine farewell to Munich.
22 July
Well folks, been in North Ayrshire for the last two days. The flights over were interesting, having flown long hall flights and then intercity hopping between European cities. Te sandwich in a cardboard box was amusing. The staff were incredibly friendly and helpful on KLM airlines. Touchdown in Glasgow, 25C at 10pm was pretty good. The Ramada hotel is less than average while undergoing renovations but it was a haven for the night.
A short drive to Kilburnie the following morning and into our first client. Rob Allen of Amber Peyote Woodcraft and Design (check out his work). Rob had contacted Pai two years ago and had kept in touch over that time. He had also offered Pai accomodation and a place to practise her art if she was ever in Scotland. Was this a stalker? Was this man a mass murderer? Nothing was heard from Rob for a while and when Pai announced the 'tours' this man appeared again and repeated these kind offers. Then Rob dropped the bait; Rob is a woodworker, artist, ex Royal Engineer and all round good bloke. This resonated with both Pai and Colin who decided to visit his company and check him out.
Well, Rob is the real deal. Both Pai and Colin were taken aback by Robs enthusiasm, generosity and kindness. His ambition and drive is evident in his work and the people that popped into the workshop to see him. Two days of smiles, laughs and riveting story telling.
Robs Ta moko tells his life story, a beautiful piece by Pai and a well deserving recipient. Rob was supported by his lovely partner Sally, who, during his 8.5 hrs journey, managed to clear out all the rubbish from his office.
Today sees the next part of the odyssey travelling north through the Highlands. Who knows what will turn up next? But I can tell you this, we have made lifelong friends with Rob and Sally and we all know we will meet again, whether it's here in Scotland or in NZ. Bless you both.
28 July
We've had a few glitches with the site and now hopefully have them ironed out.
We are now in Stirling on a bit of site seeing tiki tour between mahi; working our way south to catch up with whanau.
After we left Kilburnie we drove north through the Great Glen (Nessie country) and into Inverness to catch up with cuz James and Robert. James was keen to have Ta moko and became another member of ngati Pai. James was a strong clansman and gave no hint of the pain Pai inflicted. We said goodbye to the cuz after he guided us through Rait Castle and Clava Cairns. Thanks James, you're the bomb.
A very sedate James.
A short trip east to niece Kirsty and hubbie Andy in Rothes. How handy.....both work in a distillery each. Nice!
Anyhoo Andy was first up with a leg piece; another tough highlander who casually read, played on iPad while inked. Kirsty also showed true grit being totally relaxed reading throughout. We had a lovely stay with Andy and Kirsty and a tour of Glen Grant distillery and the gardens were a bonus. Pai was very happy rummaging through the hoko hoko shops in Rothes.
Reading, thoughtfully.
Andys completed ink with Maori curling stone.
The trip south began with a few stops within 5 miles of Rothes, Colin and the GPS never agreed; gps says go right, Colin goes left, GPS says do a u turn, Colin turns left. And so the ever decreasing circle carried on till we had travelled 100miles but had only actually traveled 16 miles from Kirsties house.
Anyhoo we eventually found a beautiful spot for the night, just south of Aviemore and settled for the night in luxury.
Tonight we find ourselves at the foot of the Wallace Monument in readiness for more history and stone crowds in the morning. Love it. Night all.
ps....Pai loves castles..."love all that shit!"
pps...hope to be well south by tomorrow night, maybe even in Twynholm?
4th August
Well and truly south now, Stranraer to be exact. Wallace Monument and Stirling Castle in the bag, games night in Star Hotel, Twynholm and a few domino wins in the bag and now in Stranraer with first victim in the bag.
William Wallace
Ghosts in Stirling Castle
Sunset over Twynholm
Pai found time to ponder at the Cairn Holy Chambered Cairn, Gatehouse of Fleet.
14 Aug
Hi all. For those of you following Paitangi Art and Ink on Facebook, you will realise that Mahi was a mix of visiting family residing in Scotland, paying respects to Paitangis' ancesters in Yorkshire and some Ta moko. It's been a very busy month covering some 2000 miles and visiting family and friends in Kilbirnie, Inverness, Rothes, Dumfries, Kirkcudbright, Twynholm, Stranraer, Hartlepool, Yeadon and Aysgarth. For those of you who missed out because we couldn't make it happen, my apologies but we are already making plans for a return trip.
Dave in Stranraer receives Ta moko in memory of his mum.
16 August
Today is the last full day in Scotland. Tomorrow sees our return to our German whanau to complete some mahi already started. We took in a couple of sites on the way to our hotel; Forth bridges, The Kelpies and the Falkirk Wheel. It seemed fitting to end our month in the UK visiting one of Scotland's very own Taniwha, the Kelpies. At 30m in height Pai can still hongi with Duke.
Here are some examples of Paitangis' mahi while in Munich. Pai's clients have travelled from Italy, Turkey, Czech Rep. and Austria, as well as all corners of Germany. They and have come from all walks of life, some waiting years for this chance, to seek Tamoko from Pai. Everybody has a story to tell and the beauty of Tamoko is that your story can be transposed on to your skin as interpreted by Pai. Thank you, all of you, who came, told your story, laughed and cried and walked away with a smile.
White ink through existing black ink.
Colour touch up on existing dolphin by Paitangi.
Red ink touch up on existing moko moko by Paitangi.
Two weeks till we leave for our European Tour. A workshop will be held in Munich for the first month, 24 June till around the end of July. If you require an appointment in Munchen during these dates please email our partner, Kurt at kurt@mflworld.com for a consultation These dates are fluid, depending on demand. Watch this space for further details.
One week to go and the trip is coming together. Excitement in the camp is building and final preparations are almost complete. We are looking forward to catching up with our German friends in Munich and to experience the hospitality of the Bavarians.
19 June: 48hrs till we fly to Munich. It's been an emotional day saying farewell to family and friends in the Far North. Currently in Auckland arranging dates etc for forthcoming events and picking up last minute supplies before we fly.
21 June: the trip to Europe finally begins. We at the 'City of Sails' Auckland Airport nice and early,
A wee bit of duty free shopping to be had, a beetroot juice and ten minutes of Wales v Russia (currently 3-0....go the boyo's).
No issues with the flight through to LA. Great to fly with National carrier Air New Zealand, just something about them that brings the earthiness to flying. A couple of inflight movies, the usual inflight meals and before we knew it we were in the city of angels.
LA International is were the fun begun for the next two - three hours. Arrival time was 2.30pm and departure time 5pm, plenty of time, or so we thought. 2 1/2 hrs is generally enough to make a connecting flight; disembark, immigration, baggage, re check in, more security and then to departure lounge.....easy?....Not!!!
We managed to pick a day were 35000 travellers were transiting through the airport. Busiest time of day, one officer advises. 2hrs spent in the first queue in immigration compouded our fears that we would miss connecting flight. Dejavu....again.
Having cleared final security check, my hoodie left on X-ray conveyor belt amongst a queue of suicases, knowing that boarding had begun 15mins prior, we sprinted to gate number 130 just to find the last of the passengers boarding. Phew!!! Made it. Staff scanned boarding cards and red lights flashed stating 'cannot board'. Heart sank. 'Step over to the counter'. We looked at each other, knowingly desperate. "Do you have your bags?" Not this old chestnut I thought. A few magic touches of the computer and we were allowed to board. I could have kissed the Lufthansa member. The rest is history. Oh just one wee funny. Pai was asked by the Lufthansa stewardess that was serving us Kai if Pais moko kauae was 'painted on'. "It's beautiful, must have been painful, are you from there?"
Anyhoo we are now in Munich with our hosts Bader and Florian and Pai has been reacquainted with her Englisch Garten.
23 June: up at 5am after solid sleep and greeted by a fox running across the lawn, now named Moxie te foxy. Went for a walk in the Englisch Garten which is 7000 acres of natural woodland and cycle paths, beer gartens and lakes in the inner city. We had to have a rest as the park is so big so we found a restplatz and the photo tells the rest of the story. Cracks me up ...I'm in Germany, In the English Garden, that has a Chinese temple, Grecian Monopterus...hmmm they like to take things these Germans🤓
7am at the bier garten
24 June: Start the day with a walk in the park. This is a dangerous place for pedestrians with moko kauae several cyclists nearly crash their bikes taking a second glance instead of looking out for trees and other cyclists etc.
This was a fun day with the crazy ladies, lots of laughs, singing and jokes (most of which were in German but we laughed anyway). Our hosts are the friendliest, most helpful and caring people ever. This is going to be a good trip...so good to see Kurts beautiful daughters Vanessa and Amelie xxx
First day 'Crazy Ladies!'
26 June
Sunday is our day of rest! Rest? Our good friend Bader took us to Salzburg to visit Florian, or Tama as I have renamed him, in his home town ...are we in Austria yet? We had been told to take our passports because of the refugee situation and Bader had been in Austria recently only to find long queues, lots of police doing border checks. So, I was anticipating being stopped by the police....but no police! Actually, where's the border ?? Into the Oldstadt we go...I love old X. We just don't have this type of old buildings, stone people, castles and churches back home so I really appreciate taking everything in...not many Maori here huh ? I'm checking out the buildings built into the cliff faces, the castle on the hill and the macabre graveyards and those blimin tourists are checking out the tattooed face 😷...
Ok , where are the goats ???
What is it?
I waited too long....
30 June
Kiaora whanau, it's only been a week or so in Deutschland and already it feels like home. Well, kind of......well, not really because there's no place like . Home in the Bay of Islands. Anyhoo, the crazy Germans are looking after us so much there is just too much kindness to go around. After our wee trip to Austria it was back to mahi with two lovely ladies who had flown in from Istanbul especially for Ta moko. Two very happy ladies left for their return flights 5 hours later complete with their ink. Next up was our very own Jason Statham doppelgänger who is working on completing his puhoro. Bader son was totally in the zone but eventually gave in to the fidgety muscle twitch and settled for another appointment on a later day.
Mother and daughter Ta moko team. Awesome.
Tuesday afternoon and off to the city for some well earned shopping and rubber necking. It really amazes me how some people can be so blatantly rude when noticing a difference in someone else's appearance as they pass by.
However, a wander through Marienplatz up to Karlplatz and every shop inbetween was fun, especially the dirndle and lederhosen shop. Hundreds of pairs of deerskin pants and dresses with no fronts. Definitely raise a few eyebrows in NZ.
Marienplatz
Cooling down at Karlplatz
29 June
Cancellation! Yay....shopping time!
Back to city centre for some shopping and tour stuff. I always thought that 'hop on, hop off' tour buses were supposed to stop occasionally? No? Yes? Ah well, we got off after a lap of the city where we were told to get another bus to complete the tour. Anyhoo, Kurt to the rescue. Kurt came into the city, picked us up and we were off on a magical mystery tour of our own; next stop Schloss Neuschwantein. Two hours later and we are at the most picturesque castle in the world.
There it is!!!
A short trip on a horse and cart and we were at the gates.
Check out Pai's version of a very famous song filmed at this castle in 1968.
Te mad King Kudwigs whare.
Recent renovations made for a pristine castle that made it look like it was built yesterday.
Next up was a quick drive amongst the beautiful Bavarian countryside to visit Kurts parents in Kempten. What lovely parents they are. Bavarian hospitality at its best: death by meat, beer and schnapps. We loved it. Kurts siblings arrived and the party grew into a 'Germany has talent' side show with plenty of singing and laughing and prosting. The sleep in the car on the way home to Munich was well earned.
8 July
Well it's been a busy time here in Munich land. We have had plenty of clients through the studio, some having travelled from far away cities in Germany and other countries like Turkey, Italy and Luxembourg. The experience of meeting these people and listening to their stories and gifting them Ta moko is a very emotional process but very rewarding one.
On the other hand, Pai enjoys her time off in this Bavarian playground. You may have seen some of her antics on Facebook but that's only the ones caught on camera. The locals still haven't adapted to their new neighbour and still stare in astonishment at this tattooed, dark skinned person in their hood. The locals ride their bikes in a very upright manner (Mary Poppins styles) like they are all in the Tour de France. Look out or they will take you out. Anyhoo, when they fly by and see the moko kauae, eyes stare, necks twist, balance goes..........
So, a recent trip to the Munich Olympic Stadium of 1972 vintage was no different. Today, as well as sports events, the stadium and grounds are used for numerous events and today it was a Red Bull bike fing where they did spectacular jumps in a huge circuit around the grounds.
This guy saw the Maori......
The intrepid travellers tried to beat Mark Spitz 7 gold medals in the pool....but after ten lengths decided it was time for beer and bratties.
We could find our way in......or out.
Anyhoo, off we went for a hikoi around the grounds (no 100m sprint or pole vaulting today for us) and found ourselves at Tollwood, an area full of market stalls and music venues. Pai is in heaven and so is Colin. While Pai discovers a whole new world of goodies, Colin parks at a wee stall with a stein.
No crashes in Munich? Amazing....all the signs are here.
When it came time to leave we found that someone had moved the bus stop, not sure why someone would do this but we found a taxi instead, in amongst the 1000s of death defying cyclists and their bikes.
On the ..... We celebrated Vanessa's geburstag (birthday). Cake, apfelcake and more cake....and beer. 😊
and then Pai taught the birthday girl Vanessa and 'the boss' Ameli a children's song in Te Reo.
Colin seemed to be the favourite as he left the party having received a box of miniatures from Bobby and some schnapps from Kurts parents. He's a lucky boy.
10 July
Well, 32 Degrees Celsius, no wind and drizabone.
The last couple of days have seen a couple of bigs pieces leave the studio. Daniel left yesterday with part puhoro after two days of being on the table. Daniel has been our gentle giant of the tour so far; a very softly spoken man from Trier on the Weser but with an incredible tolerance to pain. Anyone that can sing along to Adele while being inked in such tender places deserves respect.
Anyhoo, fresh air was the call and off we went into the evening heat to catch the U Bahn to Marienplatz for some shopping, Kai and entertainment. The latter started as soon as we got off the train, as always it's 'how do we find our way out of the station again?'
Up to ground level and straight into the Munich Pride celebrations.
Pai dives in with multi coloured residents from Russia and Scotland.
Marienplatz is packed with thousands of love filled revellers from all over Europe. Head down and push our way through the crowds, desperate to find a shop and some normality but we don't get far -
Before Pai is snapped up by some lovely ladies.....or was it the other way round?
Anyhoo, getting closer to the shops Pai gets snapped by the Mad Hatter and invited to Tea.
These two had an immediate common bond!
Finally made it to several shops and much needed undie shopping...phew.
Today the 10th we travelled with Bader son and Uli his baby brother to a nature reserve...no not a nudie camp....tsk....a beautiful animal sanctuary set up half hour outside Munich.
And it was 32 degrees.
12 July
So, yesterday saw Uli and our princess Amelie on the table. Uli left with an arm piece describing his relationship with his two brothers and his love of fishing. Uli never flinched, moved or even yawned. Another great example of patience and determination. Princess Amelie left with a Maori Mandela lotus blossom in pink. She also was an incredible client who showed great perseverance through her journey.
Today sees the return of Sigie to complete his shoulder, chest and back piece. A big piece on a big man....he's late!
13 July
Today we had Nadine in the studio from Frankfurt. She had her first ink from Paitangi whilst travelling in NZ 5 years ago. Then Lucie arrived from Prague after a short 5 hour trip, with a 3 hr window for the Ta moko before her 5 hour return trip. Thanks for coming Nadine and Lucie.
14 July
Well the big man arrived and left with another sitting or two to go. Unfortunately Germans have an incredible work ethic and when they have appointments, even if they are half way through a tattoo, they have to leave.
Siegi returns.
Nadine.
Princess Vanessa
In the afternoon, Princess Vanessa arrived, again. We think Vanessa is addicted....but we like her.
16 July
Last day and it's leg day, the fave! One wee leg and one very big calf. A lovely couple who shared their story and design.
Ever heard of car pooling? Well Europe has the answer. Pick up a mini anywhere on the street, jump in and drive off. Awesome....and it's legal.
17 July
Its all over! Part one of the tour is complete. We have had a great time in Munich and met extraordinary people with some amazing stories. Pai has reacquainted herself with her Englisch Garten, the squirrels, the ducks and bikes and Colin was able to reminisce from his previous visit with the British Army some 30+ years ago.
Thanks to our host Kurt for your support, your kindness and your friendship. Without the permission of your boss, Amelie, this would not have been possible.
See you all in a months time.
18 July
Our penultimate night in Munich. We are kinda excited as tomorrow night we touch down in Glasgow ready for a whirlwind tour of Bonnie Scotland. Last night we had our cultural fling with Beethoven and his 9th symphony. What an outstanding night; Bavarian Symphony Orchestra playing to an outdoor audience in the Odeonplatz on a balmy Bavarian evening, as the sun goes down and the moon comes up. A fine farewell to Munich.
23 August
The sun is shining here in Munchen and it's been beautiful since we returned last week. No easing into the work load here; with typical German precision Pai had 4 clients inked and happy on first day back. It's like we never left and it was great to see our Bavarian whanau once more. Pai has a favourite and it's not a family member, it's Kinder Schoko Bons. Everyday we have schokobonoclock....lots of them. So looking forward to exercise o'clock in NZ.
At the weekend Kurt took us to share a day with his Oma and Opa and family in Wiggensbach, Bavaria. It's normally a two hour drive but when Kurt is behind the wheel and the autobahn is free it's 20minutes. We arrived shortly after we left Munich and the festive spirit started almost immediately. The Bavarian barbecue was on and the beers flowed. On our last visit, Opa gifted a bottle of Blutwurz schnapps to Colin which made its way to Scotland and shared with family. German firewater comes to mind. So Colin returned the honour with a bottle of Caol Ila which went down very well. It was a great day with family, food, drink and plenty of frivolity.
Paitangi and the Bavarian Whanau.
29th Aug
Autumn is here, the leaves are changing to gold and the rain is in the air. It's borderline whether to wear shorts or longs now, such a hard decision! Had to wear a jacket down the street due to heavy rain and on way back rain stopped and temp rose to a stifling heat more akin to the pacific islands. Weird goings on.
Its been a busy week with Pai working flat out on new ink, repeat offenders and continued projects. These long hours are bringing the dreaded fatigue along for the ride too. Tomorrow is the last official ink day...yayyyy. A couple of days rest before the next phase begins, however all will be revealed soon. Watch this space.
Some of the work to showcase:
As you can see Pai worked into the wee small hours here to get finished (nothing new here I hear you say) but as we are in the northern hemisphere and it's now Autumn, the seasonal change has brought about darker evenings earlier. Before the trip to Scotland it was dark around 10pm and now it's around 8 - 8.30pm in Bavaria.
Repeat offender princess Vanessa struck again.
Maori Mandela for our princess
Moving on to a Family tree piece exquisitely interpreted by Pai which is unfinished but deserves to be viewed as it could quite simply be complete as it is.
Beautiful work
While Pai was working on this piece, Colin was given time off for so off he went to gain some Bavarian culture. A trip to an art gallery was on the list of things to do. See what you think?
So! That's enough culture for one day.
More of Pais work included this wonderful leg piece on a client previously inked by Pai in Aotearoa.
So! All things said and done, this phase of the tour is coming to an end. As this is being typed up, Pai is still working hard on her penultimate client. Home is still a month away but the things we have missed the most are the beach, the sea, the pets and of course...the whanau, in both hemispheres. To counteract these feelings of homesickness every opportunity is made to sneak a cuddle with an animal whether it's cat dog bird squirrel etc etc. in lieu of Maui, Inkoh and the uncuddly Haka the cat.
30th Aug
All packed up and ready to go to Israel on Saturday. Yes. Israel! A long time dream of Pai has been to visit various cultures around the world and some of the lesser known cultures exist in Israel. So here we come.
Back in Munich it was a big day finishing Achim and his family tree. What an incredible patient, tolerant man he is. 5 hours on his back today and not even a twitch. Truly a hero.
Where credit is due to Achim, credit is also due to the artist Paitangi. Pai has worked long hours ober the last two months creating visual and cultural master pieces which are totally absorbed and appreciated by these clients, whom have travelled fair distances to go under the needle. The stories, the laughs and the tears are all part of the experience. It's a great feeling witnessing the humble appreciation of those who receive Ta moko like a blessing. Each client received a karakea and waiata throughout, living the spirituality which is alive and practised amongst Maori people today.
Our work in Munich is done. Time for the taniwha to be put to sleep till our return to NZ.
Pai likes to clown about.
She likes to ride motorbikes.
Pai is a keen open water swimmer and you can see her almost every day throughout the year swimming in Paihia.
InkOH is a huge part of the team.
Likes to play when she gets time.
Pai likes to travel to foreign countries and poke alien life...with consequences.
Pai likes hats.
One tough little triathlete.
A dainty foot to match the other one.
8 hrs of ink and the most relaxed client.....ever.
Red ink heart.
